As Americans become more directly focused on their food--where it comes from, what is in it, how much of it we consume--so too does our media spotlight the politics behind it. This weekend a surprisingly high profile (headlining the New York Times-if you didn't catch it, you most certainly should read it!) article appeared discussing the inherent conflict that occurs when our government promotes agricultural products (essentially telling us to "eat more") and fights the rising public health crisis we call obesity (c'mon guys, "eat less").
Michael Moss's article takes a good look at government check-off programs (in this case dairy)--what are essentially public relations companies funded by levies on farmers (sanctioned by the USDA) used to promote agricultural products. Such programs invest in science to support their products as well as general marketing campaigns the most recognizable of which is the Got Milk? campaign. Legislation prohibits these programs from using funds for lobbying purposes, but let's face it, as far as we the consumer is concerned we see advertising not lobbying. So while checkoff programs cannot legally influence government policy per se, they are designed to influence consumers (and don't government officials drink milk and eat cheese too?).
With the USDA due to release its most recent version of the Dietary Guidelines for Americans this December (the most visible aspect of which is the Food Guide Pyramid), one has to wonder is there no conflict of interest in a government agency that supports promotion of cheese (arguably the largest source of saturated fat in the American diet) while at the same time urging Americans to reduce their intake of saturated fat? And what will the dairy lobby have to say this go-around?
And don't get me started on the marketing campaign ($12 million!) that Dairy Management Inc. (the organization in front of the check-off program) has revamped Domino's Pizza with. Cleverly killing two birds with one stone, Domino's has revamped its pizzas with a new line containing 40% more cheese while publicly promoting its use of REAL cheese. Commercials take doubting customers to the Wisconsin farm to meet the farmer who makes their cheese, playing to the all-important social value placed on knowing where your food comes from, while conveniently ignoring the exponentially increased amount of fat now present in their products--clever marketing indeed. With pizza as one of the most commonly consumed junk foods, it's a great place to dump extra cheese (and accompanying calories) with nobody the wiser...because fat makes things taste good and hey, we're not complaining...but maybe we should be.
Lessons? I love pizza (and cheese) as much as the next guy but we'll never change our food environment until we as individuals can learn to think critically about food, not just listen to what they tell us. (Which is exactly what they--the food industry--spend billions of dollars trying to get us not to do, because it's so much easier to believe a smartly crafted advertisement than cultivate individual analytical thought). Look before you leap, think before you eat--who and what are you really supporting?
